Perfect morning in Russell, Bay of Islands, NZ

Staying at the Bellrock B&B and taking a day off from driving! Might take the passenger ferry to the mainland for lunch! The lodge was built by a couple from Johannesburg, South Africa who moved lock stock and barrel here after conditions started deteriorating rapidly in that country. They have an outstanding property and service to visitors !

A typical Kiwi breakfast!

No skimping here! Two poached eggs, bacon, sausage, grilled tomato, hash browns, mushrooms, and a doorstop of toast! Enough to keep you going all day!

NZ Orongo Bay Oysters

Unlike anything I have tasted elsewhere! These Pacific oysters from the Orongo Bay area can be best described as plump, milky, substantial meaty consistency, medium saltiness, attractive shell and soft taste. Washed down with Sauvignon Blanc, a dozen are almost a meal in their own right! Ordered these beauties at Sally's on the Russell harbour waterfront.

Russell - Bay of Islands

Ferry terminus and quiet little harbour in the Bay of Islands reminds me of a bygone era three or four decades ago. Family stores and a few restaurants, sail boats moored overnight, no trendies or loud people, quaint, practical in an old world way, it felt like a great place to spend the rest of your life!

Matakana Farmers' Market

Meet my nemesis Michael who runs the lively and diverse Matakana market. Instantly recognizable with his flowery hat, Michael has developed the market from zero over a decade to a wonderfully vibrant and diverse vendor base. Everything was represented! It was a perfect market!

White Island volcano

NZ is adrenaline capital of the world so a little excursion to the heart of an active volcano 30 miles offshore in the Bay of Plenty seems like something we can manage! Piloted by Ross our little helicopter swept into the lava plain and landed like Eagle on the moon like landscape - we spent an hour walking through the crater, occasionally grabbing our respirator masks as wafts of acrid choking sulphur laden gases blew in our direction. The torrent of gases coming from the crater was roaring away and huge clouds rose up sometimes turning blue. The liquid in the crater has a PH of less than 1, sometimes even negative, basically sulphuric acid so don't go there! Sulphur mining came to an end in the '30's after an eruption killed all the miners! Happily the helicopter engine started and we were swiftly airlifted out of the crater back to Whakatane airport.

White Island viewed from GoPro

Ross our helicopter pilot had to get into the caldera without passing through the gases coming out of the main crater which would have caused extreme turbulence to the small Robinson copter. After securing the main rotor we tramped over the lunar landscape to the sulphur laden crater grabbing our respirators as particularly bad emissions wafted our way. Before returning to base we passed through the heavily corroded remains of the sulphur extraction plant built in the 1920's and subsequently overwhelmed by eruptions.

Kinloch Sunsets

Are your sunsets always this beautiful? Looking south across Lake Taupo from Kinloch....

Bucolic Hobbiton

Just outside the Green Dragon it looks like Merry or Pippin have left their fishing pole, tackle and snacks!

The Green Dragon

Damn hobbits are so hard to find! I'll settle for a pint of Amber Ale by the fireside of the Green Dragon pub, one of the finest watering holes in the Shire!

Bilbo Baggins

Forgetful Bilbo has gone out of the house and forgot to close the door! Not a good idea with those wraiths around.....

Visiting Hobbiton

Tucked away in Middle Earth is the Shire where we are trying to catch up with our friends the Hobbits. We stepped inside one of their houses to have Elevenses but it appears they are out for a stroll in the Shire.....

How to slow cook for 400 guests

Make a large wooden box with trays, connect it up to a steam fumarole just about available anywhere, prep your veggies, place in box for several hours.... voila !

Craters of the moon

Invigorating one hour hiking circuit of the fumaroles known as the Craters of the Moon near Taupo, the center of the Thermal Zone of the North Island. The entire valley is ouzing steam from every crevice!

Abel Tasman Day 4

Shorter day only 10 km or so to Totaranui where we pick up the Aqua Taxi to return to Marahau. Lunch on the beautiful beach at Goat Bay before the final ascent and descent of Skinner Point only made worse by the landslide destroying the lower altitude track and forced to use the newer higher track. Surprise at the end of the Aqua Taxi ride as the boat drove on to a trailer offshore at low water and was hauled out by a farm tractor and towed through town to the taxi base complete with crew and passengers!

Awaroa Dinner

Day 3 of the Abel Tasman trail was a success thanks to Brian the chef at the lodge. Navigating Margaret's allergies Brian produced a memorable dinner of fish and lamb. I have fallen under the Sauvignon Blanc spell and found a local Nelson area vintage called Resurgence with a delightful nose!

Margaret Retirement Home?

I wonder if she has found the perfect spot to retire to? A hole in a hillside in Hobbiton with a round door and an endless supply of Amazon Kindle books?

Day 3 - Rest day lunch!

Got to enjoy the chef's excellent fish & chips - a fish called Hokey! All the better washed down with a cold Stella followed by a nap! But before a quick visit to the wetlands to feed the very large eels!

Awaroa Lodge

Abel Tasman trail end of day 2 arrive at Awaroa luxury lodge in the middle of the New Zealand beech forest and fern trees. Day of rest on day 3 and we leave for our final destination on day 4 before being ferried back to base by Aqua Packers boat.

Awaroa Lodge dinner

Started with local seafood chowder and ordered fish of the day for main course.... about four fillets of local Tarakihi with sauce graced my plate. Got to admit the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is becoming addictive! Served by Liza from Italy in the fine dining room at the lodge.

Maori guards

Only men with big spears may pass across this bridge.... Leaving Onetahuti Bay beach and heading north. Very nice new boardwalk 1 km long leads across the wetlands and positions you for the hike up to Tonga Saddle.