Ice Cold in Awaroa

Similarities about Ice Cold in Alex today as we tramped 9 hours from Anchorage, over many hills, valleys and beaches on the exceptional pristine Abel Tasman trail - we covered about 21 km or 13 miles, going over 6 headlands, down to 5 beaches, changing to water shoes to make low tide estuary crossings which save km of extra round about dry trails. So how to celebrate our arrival at Awaroa Lodge but step up to the bar and order a cold beer!

Suspension bridges

Many of the major streams and rivers on the Abel Tasman trail can only be crossed by mini suspension bridges designed for hikers to walk across in single file usually with a weight restriction of five max on bridge at any given time. There is a lot of swaying and motion that can really make you feel uncomfortable! No know casualties do far!!!!

Our own New Zealand "Bach"

End of our first day on the Abel Tasman trail arriving at the Anchorage bay and we have given an exclusive NZ Bach all to ourselves! Pronounced batch it is a quintessential NZ style holiday cottage with minimal luxuries but a great place to get away from the world. This one features one room kitchen/living/bedroom, wood fired stove, view of the Anchorage, solar panel, hot water bottles for the bed! What a treat!

Day 1 Abel Tasman trail

Solar power installation

The Abel Tasman bach we stayed overnight had a wood fired stove which I set my alarm timer to every two hours overnight to keep the fire going, however there was also a solar panel and banks of batteries - 24 of these cells in banks of 6. Some investment!

Tides Restaurant

The river that runs by the Tides Restaurant in Nelson is indeed tidal - it took a few visits before I managed to view the full 200ft width of water rather than the 20ft at low water. Exceptional dinner for Margaret local scallops on kumara (local white sweet potato) rounds, and for me the seafood taster menu of scallops, calamari and chili shrimps along with deep fried cauliflower!

Nelson

Nelson.... one of the prettiest, cleanest and most delightful towns you could find anywhere in the world! Streets are named Trafalgar, Collingwood, Vanguard, Nile, Hardy in honor of Horatio Nelson! So popular that the population grew 16% last year with an influx from post-earthquake Christchurch folks where daily tremors keep reminding the locals that it's not over yet! Flying in over the Nelson harbor in a Bombardier 300.

South to Nelson

Heading south on a short 60 minute flight to Nelson at the top of the South Island and the start of our four day hike along the Able Tasman coastline trail....

Next on the menu...

Always fun to come across a few acres of little lambs, alpacas, lamas, swans, boar, deer, and now ostriches! NZ cuisine attempts to delight the palate in all possible ways.... and we have been trying them all.... but no ostrich on the menu yet!

Food identification!

Just in case you are unsure what you ordered, or maybe it's a chef fail-safe check, SC means Steak and Cheese pie! Lots of delightful pies in the NZ cafés including steak and kidney, lamb, mince and many variations all done in puff pastry. Just like the old country except in NZ you get top quality ingredients.

Heartland Express

While having breakfast just outside Hamilton we chanced on the Auckland to Wellington Heartland Express passing by our diner restaurant - a rarity as it is excursion only and runs infrequently. Nice to see some live steam in NZ!

In the Cave of the Mountain King

A hundred or more feet under the Waikato landscape lies the Waitomo caves. Our two hour morning hike was completely subterranean in the Ruakuri natural tunnel system nearly two miles long, from spiral entry chamber to tunnel, via suspended walkways past Glowworm intense ceilings, stalactites and stalagmites, limestone veils, torrents running under the walkways with wet suited adventurers on large inner tubes swooshed by heading downstream! Altogether a New Zealand experience!

Into Gollum's Cave...

At Waitomo we take the Glowworm cave tour which starts in a limestone cavern full of stalactites and stalagmites. Glow worms gang from the ceiling and illuminated like small led lights, nearer the underground stream they become plentiful. Then we board a boat in complete darkness and are pulled through the water cave by ropes as we admire the diaspora of Glowworm colonies eventually to emerge in daylight. Reminds me of taking a boat ride in the Hades underworld with Orpheus!

Mineral spring bath....

Skip the shower, jump in the mineral spring and get a therapeutic start to the day!

Source of the Waikite source

Nice and hot - two degrees below boiling point - the hot spring is channeled downstream to five different pools. My morning soak was at 41.3 C or 106 F. Had the pool to myself since only RV campers have exclusive access until 10 am when the day trippers arrive!

Waikite thermal stream

Coming out of the mountainside at 98 degrees Celsius the stream is diverted to a series of pools and hot tubs for the popular enjoyment of bathers and visitors! Wow isn't NZ amazing!

Devil's bathtub!

If you like sulphur and H2S then this is your spot. In the Wai-O-Tapu thermal area this is one spot to avoid. Deep yellow sulphurated waters will probably corrode you within minutes!

Wai-O-Tapu Pool

Walking around the Champagne Pool about 200ft across and 200ft deep with a temperature 74 degree centigrade - 165 degrees Fahrenheit. Water contains gold, silver, mercury, sulphur, arsenic, thallium, and antimony.

A Casual Conversation....

While hanging out at Vava'u Mango cafe one morning I got into conversation with New Zealander John. We talked about our respective travels and his loss of his wife leading him to travel South Pacific island-hoping with two of his friends. He mentioned the Smokehouse in Coromandel where four days later I happen to stop by and fill the RV fridge with goodies... smoked local salmon, smoked mussels, smoked scallops - all great local seafoods - which we enjoyed wrapped in wasabi flavored seaweed wraps, with bean salad and cole slaw ... Nice snacks!

RV Camper 101

FIAT chassis finished by Burstner a German outfit specializing in the conversion to a vehicle to Wilderness spec this RV van runs on diesel, propane and plug in 240 volt and a 12 volt to 240 volt inverter capable of supporting life as we know it in the wilderness! It does have 75,000 km on the clock so it's rattling a bit especially on the secondary and gravel roads around the Coromandel! Intimate for two couples needless to say!

Maria's Pavlova

What a treat! Special dinner at cousin Lynley's house and dessert by daughter Maria.... Pavlova, double cream and fresh strawberries and not to forget Lynley's superb roast lamb main course!! Also visiting for dinner youngest cousin Patsy. Tomorrow we meet the third cousin Erica for coffee! Have not seen my three NZ cousins for 14 years!

Jaz does Yoga

Breakfast stop at Tairua followed by Jasmin yoga session...

Whitianga Restaurant

Lovely evening with my cousin Lynley and family - had expert guidance from family friend Margaret and sampled NZ oysters with Chardonnay sauce, green lipped mussels, shank of lamb and sauté grouper - splitting all your courses with a friend gives a wonderful taste of the outgoing, fresh and innovative New Zealand zest for the freshest and healthiest cuisine!

Whitianga Harbour Ferry

One of the shortest ferry rides is across the Whitianga Harbour entrance, probably 300ft, through very choppy water for NZ$3. The harbour extends back and widens out inland about 10km and causes a huge amount of water to sluice in and out with each tide. Add wind whistling through the gap gives great wind against tide effects making the ferryman navigate crabwise from dick to dock.

Novel marketing of fishing trips

Enterprising lady offering a new angle on marketing to the male fisherman!

Shortcut across the Coramandel

Taking the 50km gravel road across from Coromandel to Whitianga may be faster than taking the 90km coastal road and we get to stop and view the Waiau waterfalls!

Lynley's bach

Cousin Lynley is working on a superb restoration project - a 1950's abandoned cottage overlooking Cook's Beach just across from Whitianga on the Coromandel peninsula. Might take a few years but it's going to be an outstanding spot to live!

Shock whitebait!

Ordered whitebait thinking it would be Mediterranean deep fry - received small fish in an omelet! Oh well live and learn!

Convert to camper!

From 40ft catamaran to a 20ft camper albeit a deluxe camper with two beds, dining, kitchen, shower, toilet and mod cons. Weighs about three and half tons and drives like a large SUV. Challenging tortuous roads of the Coromandel keeps speeds around 30 mph!

Tongan language !!!!

There is lot of aircraft instructions in the Real Tonga flight from Vava'u to Tongatapu! Looks like a lot faka this and faka that! I think I'd better behave!

Anchorage #26

Flying out of Vava'u we climb over the eastern shore and pass over anchorage #26 and the island of Olo'ua where we spent Sunday listening to the village signing - started around 10am and was still going strong at 6:30pm, occasionally a gap for pealing bells.... and they started again at 5:30am Monday morning! Difficult to comprehend the devotion and complete village participation - we did not a soul at all anytime that day!

Trip itinerary update

Richmond to Atlanta to Los Angeles (8 hrs)
Los Angeles to Auckland, New Zealand (13 hrs)
Auckland to Tongatapu main island.... (2 hrs)
Overnight then Tongatapu to Vava'u (2 hrs)
Charter catamaran for 12 days
Fly Vava'u back to Tongatapu main island (1 hr)
Overnight in Nuku'
Tongatapu back to Auckland (2 hrs)
Pick up camper!

Bye Raymond

Leaving Moorings base on Vava'u today for Nuku'alofa on Tongatapu on the main island. Eleven days sailing in paradise with expert advice from native Tongan Raymond Siasau who manages the joint Moorings / Sunsail charter base in Neiafu. Raymond handles the outgoing and returning briefing while one of his six daughters serves us fried egg and hashbrowns breakfast at the waterside Mango Cafe.

Breakfast!

I had intended to fish during the trip, in fact I brought along a short rod, reel and lures. However I ended up feeding flatbread pieces to the fishes and gathered quite a frenzy!

Last charter anchorage #8

Last sunrise from the good ship Vahanoa which means the big wide open sea and sky out of sight of land in Tongan (I'm told). Taking her back into charter base mid-morning and boarding a Chinese two engine 18 seater puddle jumper whose airworthiness certificate is in some dispute with the New Zealand authorities! Well what to you expect it was a gift from China to the Tongan government! Update to follow on safe arrival in main island.

Meals galore

A continuous stream of dishes flows from the galley with all four cooks taking turns to conjure dishes from the fresh produce, spices and huge refrigerator. Jaz does an exotic Mexican breakfast dish of Chiliques with tortilla strips, cheese, green chili peppers, eggs, onions and garlic. You never know what will come next... fruity snacks appear periodically, fresh papaya, pineapple, coconuts, hands of native bananas, and water melons.

Vava'u Catholic Church

Tongans are deeply religious and honor Sunday as forever sacred in the Tongan Constitution. No sporting events, no work or trading, no noise, and contracts signed on Sunday are void! Centered in Neiafu the Catholic Church dominates the township. Santiago Sosefo KOE Tangata Ngaue adorns the main sanctuary door - the scoop classrooms surround to make a fenced compound invaded by uniformed school kids and dozens of small piglets awaiting their turn to be the keynote item in the Tongan suckling pig feast!

Anchorage #26

Tricky navigation to reach the eastern islands in Vava'u group required locating the Fanua Tapu pass, a dogleg channel through the reefs with two almost imperceptible buoys marking the channel. Finding a small white buoy amongst Force 4 whitecaps was almost impossible but Jaz's sharp eyes spotted the first starboard black buoy and the overhead sunlight revealed the channel amongst the coral heads and the sand bars and slow ahead on both diesels got us through the reef separating east and west sides of the Vava'u islands. First stop anchorage #25 for a quick dinghy run to Nieafu to pick up alcohol and other basic supplies, then on to #26 (my favorite number) at Olo'us island for a peaceful night in 30 meters of water off the village beach.

Everyone cooks....

Controlled chaos in the galley... rolling out flatbreads and grilling them on the barbecue is a daily delight. Supplies mostly come from New Zealand approx 1500 miles south of here so creative use of local supplies helps. There is only one town / harbour Neiafu on the archipelago so running out if anything requires return to port. Mid charter we refilled our water tanks, replenished fruit, veg and dairy.

Robertson & Caine 3900

Built in Cape Town, South Africa and delivered to Tonga three years ago - what a ride that must have been! Standard sail plan with curling genoa and lazy jacks for the main. Powered by two Yanmar diesels and Northern Lights diesel generator she has the full Raymarine electronics package, GPS, chart plotter and auto-pilot. Every anchorage we have been overnighting in we laud out the full 60 meters (200 ft) of chain and anchor which I conservatively estimate to be near a 1/4 ton of iron we are moored to so we sleep sell despite gusting and varying wind directions.

Wednesday anchorage #11

Refilled water tanks in Neiafu and sent Ben and Jaz to shop market for fresh produce. Stopped by the Chinese Fortune store and made a pile of provisions that were promptly delivered dockside and loaded to Vahanoa. Motored through light rain mostly on autopilot around Kapa island and dropped 60 meters of chain off Tapana Island. Dinghy over to The Ark Gallery where Sheri the artist earns a living as well as leasing moorings to ocean crossing sailors who have semi-abandoned their boat here in Vava'u. Ben prepping green mango pickle, Korean cucumber relish, flatbreads (we have a sourdough base on board continuously being fed and portions being baked on the barbecue) arugula salad, lightly fermented cole slaw, papaya, sweet potatoes with garlic and lastly chicken salad for the carnivores. Cocktails served at 17:00 local Wednesday which is midnight Tuesday in Virginia. The sun is always is setting somewhere!

Close Encounter of the Third Kind

Nothing quite like meeting a full size female humpback whale face to face, a few feet between us, having a pair of beady eyes quietly evaluate whether you are a suitable individual to trust her calf child to for a few minutes. Having passed the test she silently glides down in 50 fathoms of ocean until she is barely an outline and leaves her two month old baby to cavort and frolic amongst our bodies, gliding between us, thrusting itself out of the water and plunging back in to come from a different direction and thrill us with her antics. Ten minutes of laughter and thrills later mother emerges like a ghost from the depths to let baby know its time to move on. We have the distinct feeling we were borrowed to baby sit and entertain one of nature's most intriguing mammals. Mother and baby will head off the Antarctica as soon as she is strong enough to brave the long journey south. Photos thanks to my new GoPro Hero camera and Ben's steady nerves under pressure!

Yoga time !

Foredeck is plenty spacious on the 40ft catamaran to hold evening yoga lessons and practice!

Dubious guest in board!

Should we dump Jasmin over the stern? What's the translation?

Captain's Log Saturday October 11th

High winds that were part of a major cyclone have passed by and moderate winds are forecast switching from east, going through north overnight and westerly in the morning. Using WindGuru app to figure best protected anchorages under fluctuating conditions! Using a Tongan SIM card ($15 for 1GB) to stay online on an old iPhone 4.